We have been in Japan one week and are all loving it! From day one (despite the difficulty in renting the car), we all remarked on how there is something so familiar about Japan, though it is hard to put a finger on why. We don’t understand a word, can’t read any signs, don’t know much about the culture and don’t know anyone who lives here or even is from here, but somehow it does feel familiar. I had the same feeling the first time we were in Denmark and Finland, and all I can say is that it is a wonderful, warm and optimistic feeling that makes you feel like you’re in a home that you’ve never seen before.

Admittedly, I was a bit worried before we arrived. The past 11+ weeks have been intense, wonderful but challenging, and have taken a lot of patience, creativity and brain power to navigate. The girls were really looking forward to coming to Japan, but I was a bit apprehensive because I anticipated that navigating the country would be similar to the past several places we’ve been. I know that when we arrive in New Zealand, everything will be a lot easier, but I was expecting these four weeks to continue along as the past 11 have. But I’m delighted to say I was wrong! The roads are well-maintained and super easy to navigate, the grocery stores have enough foods we recoginze to keep the kids happy, every single person we have interacted with has been kind and helpful, the streets are clean and safe, etc. I wouldn’t say it’s “American” or “European” but there are enough elements of familiarity that we are not overwhelmed. And it is so beautiful! Now time for a million photos of the spectacular fall colors we have been enjoying.

We spent the first half of the week in Kinugawa, a small town bordering Nikko National Park. We had a cute little apartment where we immediately felt at home. Everything was very clean and well thought-out. The first day there we went on a short hike to Nijimi Falls and then along the river. It was divine! The weather is absolutely perfect–cool, crisp, sunny fall weather with absolutely no humidity (a welcome change). And the trees are really showing off!

On Wednesday, sadly Hannah started to feel ill (fever, cough, chills) so she stayed home while the rest of us went on a little adventure. We drove to Nikko where we enjoyed a delicious meal of Yuba (tofu) in a gorgeous restaurant and then we walked around the Futarasan Shrine and caught a glimpse of the famous Shinkyō Bridge, but unfortunately did not have enough time to truly explore.

We were off to our first onsen experience! We found one nearby where we were staying that had private baths, so we could go together and wear our swimsuits. We had our own little cabin with bathroom and changing area that then led out to a completely private, two-tier deck with two tubs overlooking the river. The water was so hot! But felt really good. It was really nice to relax and enjoy the peaceful setting together.

On Thursday we drove almost seven hours southwest to the itty bitty town of Kaimukura, near Nanto, where we stayed at a delightful inn for three nights. We all stayed in one room and shared a bathroom with the two other guests (who did have their own bedroom LOL), and we enjoyed a glimpse into country life in Japan. We were served a delicious breakfast every morning and enjoyed the quiet, slow pace.

We explored two preserved villages with traditional gassho-zukuri (“praying hands” houses) farmhouses which is what the area is known for. Unfortunately, at this point both Hannah and Luisa were sick, so they didn’t get a chance to see the villages. But the four of us went and really liked it.

On our way to Ainokura village, we stopped at Murakami House, built approximately 350 years ago (one of the oldest Gassho-zukuri houses). It has been carefully preserved to maintain authenticity. We had fun looking at the different materials for construction, tools and layout of the house.

From there we went to Ainokura village. It is smaller, less touristy and more off the beaten path than the better known Ogimachi village in nearby Shirakawa-go (where we visited Saturday). We actually enjoyed this one a bit more since it was less crowded and easier to imagine what their life was like so many years ago. Olivia even had the chance to make Washi paper!

Then on Saturday we headed to the larger Ogimachi village. It was also very picturesque but had a different vibe since there were so many more tourists there. We did get to eat some traditional food, pursued some stores carrying handicrafts and enjoyed the perfect fall weather. We had a nice time but missed our two sickies at home.

Today was another travel day. This time it was a four hour drive, mostly south, to just outside Kyoto where we will stay for four nights. Since we had to check-out at 10am and couldn’t check-in until 4pm, I found two scenic lookout stops along the way to stretch our legs and enjoy some fresh air. The first was Amagozen Cape so we could get a good look at the Sea of Japan. We have been driving close off and on and getting little glimpses, but I wanted a good long look. And it did not disappoint! Also, we encountered the cleanest public toilet we have ever seen. Complete with a heated toilet seat! (Haven’t seen a toilet in Japan yet that was not a Toto toilet.)

From there we drove south and inland until we reached Lake Biwa, where we will be staying for a few days. We will be on the southern end, so we took a break at the northern tip before driving the final hour to our destination. We are staying in another adorable apartment with a great kitchen/living area and plenty of space to sleep. We are looking forward to exploring the area!